Kiwi Heavyweight
2002 Terraces Estate “T” Pinot Noir
Marlborough, New Zealand
Brancott Vineyards
$28.00
www.montana.co.nz
Have you heard pinot noir is the “rising star” red varietal from New Zealand? Recently I’ve been hearing a lot of buzz about Central Otago, a southern appellation on New Zealand’s South Island, as being the next “hot spot” for quality pinot. Many even believe that this southernmost region will be THE region that gives Burgundy a real chase around the block! Terraces Estate “T” Pinot Noir is from Marlborough however, the South Island’s most northern appellation and best known for the grassy, gooseberry-laden sauvignon blancs for which it is rightly famous. Terraces Estate is the high-end, single vineyard bottling from Brancott Vineyards, New Zealand’s largest and most widely distributed winery (known outside the USA as Montana Wine Company). As it happens, only 500 cases of this wine made it to The States: certain proof that we truly live in the land of plenty.
Terraces Estate “T” Pinot Noir is a deep and transparent beet red in the glass and assaults the senses with size and power. This pinot is heavy on toasted oak, which contributes coffee, cocoa and caramel character. “T” is decidedly black-fruit driven, showing some black raspberry and cherry, and aside from aromatics leached from oak cooperage offers little more than big fruit extract and alcohol. In fact, I found “T” to be similar in style to many pinots from California’s Central Coast: over-wrought.
Terraces Estate is a wine of grand proportions and is as massive to the mouth as it is powerful to the nose. This pinot’s mouthfeel commands one’s attention and offered a texture, very dense and concentrated, full of tannin and grip, quite unlike any pinot I’ve had before. While interesting for being unique, Terraces Estate favors oak, tannin and alcohol over balance, acidity and grace. This IS NOT nuanced pinot noir and was very difficult to drink during dinner.
In fact, I think this wine would be most appreciated by those who like drinking big wines BEFORE dinner. Drink it with hors d’oeuvres if you must but “T” has no place on the dinner table, that space is reserved for food wines like good sauvignon blanc from Marlborough. Not Recommended!