Mercurial Marketing
2002 Domaine Louis Max Mercurey
“Clos La Marche” Monopole
$20.99
www.louismax.com
Anyone who’s gambled their money away on expensive bottles of Burgundy eventually discovers the charms of Côte Chalonnaise, Côte d’Or’s less prestigious neighbor to the south. On more than a few occasions I’ve returned a coveted Chambolle Musigny to a wine shop shelf in favor of a lowly Mercurey or Givry and been all the happier for having done so. True, these value appellations don’t have the cachet of Volnay or Gevrey Chambertin, but with their purchase enough good money should remain for bread, cheese and a whole chicken for roasting. Try as I might, man can’t live on wine alone! So, with respect for my wallet and good dinner in mind I bought this bottle of “Clos La Marche”, a monopole from Mercurey produced by Domaine Louis Max. Distinctively packaged and affordably priced, I was hoping I’d discovered a new house wine for Chez Marcy.
Brilliantly clear, Domaine Louis Max’s 2002 Mercurey was pale raspberry red in color. This pinot offered light raspberry, earth and leaf to the nose and was very light in fruit extract. Unfortunately, I found it to be thin, somewhat watery and lacking weight and texture in the mouth. This wine was most appealing when paired with food however. Light and nicely balanced, this wine didn’t overpower my meal and was refreshing from sip to sip with pleasant red fruit sweetness accentuated by the addition of food. For sure, this Mercurey wasn’t thought provoking pinot noir but was serviceable all the same. It wasn’t “food wine” as much as wine that NEEDED food to be enjoyed at all. Certainly there are many pinots more interesting and equally adept at flattering a simple meal, but “Clos La Marche” did serve food well and should work wonders with cheese given its low tannin and lightness of style.
Yet, what I find most dissatisfying about this simple Burgundy is the use of the word “monopole” on its creative label. I’ve always understood the term to denote a vineyard both farmed and owned by its managing domaine. What a pity for Louis Max if this simple Mercurey is as good as it gets for their prized monopole “Clos La Marche”. One can only wonder if this wine is made from juice declassified from that site and if Domaine Louis Max is favoring a bigger, more interesting selection of “Clos La Marche” under a different bottling. If true, isn’t that a little underhanded? It leaves me scratching my head uncertain of their marketing motivations and questioning their reputation. I love food friendly wine as much as the next pinotphile but to offer a vineyard designated wine that drinks no better than decent Bourgogne Rouge is ignorant at best and disingenuous at worst. Not recommended.