2001 Calera Pinot Noir
Central Coast
$19.99
www.calerawine.com

Josh Jensen had a singular pursuit: to find limestone soil capable of producing fine pinot noir in California. In fact, Calera’s label pays homage to the limestone kiln which still graces his Hollister Estate. While the fruit that is used in producing Calera’s El Niño and Central Coast bottlings is sourced from other growers throughout the Central Coast, all Calera pinot noir is inspired by a “traditional” approach. Wine is produced in a gravity-flow winery, often whole-cluster fermented by native yeasts and manually punched down in open-top fermentors. As nearly 60% of Calera’s production is pinot noir the lover of good pinot can rest easy that there do remain guardians of quality (and value) in this bulk-it-out age!

2001 Calera Central Coast Pinot Noir presented a transparent black-cherry red to the glass. To the nose, soft cherry and raspberry fruit were deepened by subtle undertones of cola and cassis. The little oak here presented is perceived deep in the wine’s background. This pinot noir was impressive for its silk, soft tannin and balance, and refreshing with acidity both tart and quenching. Calera’s Central Coast Pinot Noir is fruit-driven, clean and integrated while remaining lean in perspective.

I believe this pinot noir preferences elegance over power offering a purity of fresh fruit that is the direct result of quality-focused winemaking. In short, this is VERY good pinot noir which leaves one asking: why can’t more wineries share such high aspirations? Highly recommended!

2003 Fleur de California Pinot Noir
Carneros
$12.99
www.fleurdecalifornia.com

It doesn’t take much to spark the imagination for Fleur de California’s label is a pretty postcard from the past. Gatsby, Gershwin, Garbo: the Jazz Age is at hand! But you can’t judge a book by its cover, or so it seems a pinot by its package.

2003 Fleur de California Pinot Noir was a deep and transparent ruby red in the glass. To the nose this Carneros pinot noir was ripe cherry and strawberry juice, new oak and alcohol. I detected a little Brettanomyces buried beneath the heavy fruit extract as well. With its full, juicy mouthfeel it was hard to tell I was drinking pinot at all save for what the pretty label told me. In fact, this pinot was way too fat and cloying to drink with dinner (try as I might). The wine finished astringently with a modicum of acidity.

It’s a shame really that people even make this style of wine. Not that all pinot need be elegant and lean but it should work with food at least a little, right? To be true, the bottle’s back-copy describes itself as bright, fresh and approachable but so is Beaujolais! And if picnic wine is what your after Dornfelder would be a better choice. I’d really be surprised if those responsible for Fleur de California Pinot Noir sit down to dinner with a bottle of this very often and I hope for Gershwin’s sake that dinner in their homes pairs Rhapsody in Blue with better wine. Not recommended!